How to cast on stitches in knitting

In this article, I will describe two methods for casting on stitches with knitting needles: the classic “long tail” method and the provisional method using waste yarn (which is useful if you need to “open” and use the stitches of the first row later). Additionally, I will show how to determine the length of the yarn tail and demonstrate two ways to form the first stitch, highlighting their differences.

Let’s go through everything step by step.

Table of contents

I. Classic cast-on method («long tail»)

Determining the length of the tail

This is a common cast-on technique described in various knitting guides as a basic method.

The essence of this method is that the stitches are cast on not from the end of the yarn, but after creating a certain length of yarn (the so-called “tail”). The length of this “tail” is usually the most debatable aspect of this technique. The length depends on the number of stitches needed, the thickness of the yarn, the size of the needles… As you can see, many factors determine the length of the “tail,” and it can often be challenging to calculate it accurately. If you need 10, 20, or even 30 stitches, estimating the length visually is not difficult. But what if you need to cast on 200 stitches? In any case, having an objective method for calculating it is useful.

There are many different methods: for example, the tail length should be four times the length of the edge of the future piece. But then you need to know the edge length of the future piece, which is not always possible. And that’s when the most effective method, in my opinion, comes to the rescue: you need to wrap the yarn around the needle that will be used for knitting as many times as the number of stitches you need. This method takes everything into account: the number of stitches, the thickness of the yarn, the size of the needles.

00:32 – in video

cast on stitches length of long tail

To determine the length of the “tail” for 80 stitches, you can wrap the yarn around the needle 80 times, or you can wrap it 20 times and use this length of yarn folded in four.

Forming the first stitch

After we determine the length of the “tail,” we need to create the first stitch. There are many methods for this as well.

1 method of forming the first stitch. The simplest and most versatile method, in my opinion, is the twist-method.

01:50 – in video

Place the “tail” closer to you, create a loop with a bend at the point where the “tail” transitions into the main part:

cast on first stitch with wrap stage 1

Insert the thumb and index finger of your left hand into this loop and spread the ends of the yarn forming the loop:

cast on first stitch with wrap stage 2

Then insert the needle into this loop from bottom to top:

cast on first stitch with wrap stage 3

And make a circular motion, twisting the loop once:

cast on first stitch with wrap stage 4
cast on first stitch with wrap stage 5
cast on first stitch with wrap stage 6

My grandmother 👵 taught me this method many years ago. She was an avid knitter and could do everything. I use it everywhere.

2 method of forming the first stitch. This method creates the first stitch with a knot. It is also used quite frequently.

02:23 – in video 

This method forms the first stitch with a knot. Measure the expected length of the tail, and in this area, place the yarn away from you over your left index finger (with the “tail” towards you):

cast on first stitch with knot stage 1

And wrap the yarn around your index finger once:

cast on first stitch with knot stage 2

Then insert the needle under the yarn on your index finger:

cast on first stitch with knot stage 3

Grab the free part of the yarn,
and pull it under the yarn on your index finger:

cast on first stitch with knot stage 4

Tighten the resulting knot so that the first stitch
tightly wraps around the needle:

cast on first stitch with knot stage 5

Classic cast-on method («long tail»)

Now that we have the first stitch, we will continue the classic cast-on using the thumb and index finger.

⏰  02:49 – in video

The positioning of the fingers is the same—the “tail” yarn lies on the thumb of your left hand, the main part of the yarn on the index finger of your left hand, with both yarns tensioned using the free fingers and palm of your left hand:

cast on classic stage 1

Raise your left thumb up:

cast on classic stage 2

And insert the needle under the yarn in front of your thumb:

cast on classic stage 3

Continue the needle movement over the yarn behind your left thumb:

cast on classic stage 4

Grab the yarn lying on your index finger, and pull it towards you between the yarns wrapping around your thumb:

cast on classic stage 5

Pull tight, stretching the yarn with the thumb and index finger of your left hand:

cast on classic stage 6

Repeat this motion the required number of times to form the desired number of stitches on the needle.

It’s time to compare how the first stitch looks with different methods of forming it:

compare 2 methods of first sts

II. Cast-on method using waste yarn (provisional cast-on)

This method is useful if you need to “open” and use the stitches of the first row later on. This technique is very similar to the classic method, with the only difference being that instead of a yarn “tail,” you use a waste yarn. Waste yarn is a yarn that contrasts in color with the main yarn and is similar in thickness. Based on these statements, it may seem that a “tail” is not needed, but we often leave a length of the main yarn to use it for knitting in the opposite direction from the first row. Usually, instructions will indicate this. The first stitch with this method is not created separately; it is part of the cast-on.

Place the main yarn on the index finger of your left hand and the waste yarn on the thumb of your left hand. Hold the “tails” between the free fingers and the palm of your right hand, and hold the working part of the main and waste yarns between the free fingers and the palm of your left hand. Lift the thumb of your left hand up:

cast-on-waste-thread stage 1
cast-on-waste-thread stage 2

And insert the needle under the waste yarn in front of your thumb:

cast-on-waste-thread stage 3

Continue the needle movement over the yarn behind your left thumb:

cast-on-waste-thread stage 4

Grab the yarn lying on your index finger, and pull it towards you between the yarns wrapping around your thumb:

cast-on-waste-thread stage 5

Pull tight, stretching the yarn with the thumb and index finger of your left hand:

cast-on-waste-thread stage 6

Repeat this motion the required number of times to form the desired number of stitches on the needle. 

cast-on-waste-thread stage 7
cast-on-waste-thread stage 8

And finally, the reason behind all this work with the waste yarn: this method allows you to easily pick up the stitches of the first row onto your needles (the waste yarn is contrasting, making it easy to distinguish from the main yarn). The stitches can be released gradually, as needed.

04:52 – in video

Find the beginning of the first row and insert the needle into the first stitch of the first row through which the waste yarn passes:

remove-waste-thread stage 1

Release this stitch from the waste yarn by pulling it out with an additional needle or a tapestry needle:

remove-waste-thread stage 2

Repeat these movements until the waste yarn is completely removed: insert the needle into the next stitch of the first row, release it from the waste yarn, and so on.

remove-waste-thread stage 3
remove-waste-thread stage 4

Now, you can use this edge with live stitches for creating knitted seams, ribbing, lengthening the piece, and other purposes.

Of course, there are a multitude of methods for casting on stitches, and it’s impossible to cover all of them. Each project uses the most suitable method. This article covers the methods commonly found in TARITOYS patterns.

I hope this article has been helpful and has detailed the methods described.

Enjoy your knitting!  🧶

Best regards,

Tatyana .

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